Impressions of Ireland
Sky:
-Big, wide. Bursts of stripes across the whole thing
-Layers of clouds, long shelves of straight soft lines from horizon to horizon
-Fourth night, an almost full moon high in the sky; same moon, same sun, but so different
Fields:
-No crops that I saw, except the crops of sheep and cows
-Pastures bounded by rock walls, and at the far edges an army of beings - wide green and textured at the bottom, standing still and vigilant. And topped with tall trunks and branches. Like Ents! It is only later you realize that vines cover anything that stays still for awhile, like trees. Sheep, white dots of fluff, speckled across the fields. And ravens keep watch from fences and trees.
Cities:
-Super narrow streets, narrow sidewalks, stone buildings - tall and old and often elegant.
-Fast pace in train station, bus station and on sidewalks. So many people heading to destinations, faces somewhat stern, but that belies the huge friendliness. Even to us from the US (which I thought might be a real negative factor). Over and above helpfulness, friendly voices, eager to tell us when they were in America, or when they plan to go. Our country has made enemies abroad in the recent past, and it was such a pleasure to be treated with respect!
-Birds: Big! Perched on every tall statue, chimney, or fence. Ravens or seagulls, depending on how near we are to the ocean.
Water:
-Water everywhere. In streams, along roads, in rivers, in lakes, at the many ocean fronts (since Ireland is surrounded by ocean!), and in the intricate bays where the ocean cuts into the land.
-Water also in the air. We mostly witnessed days of gentle rain or sprinkles. Burgeoning green growth everywhere.
Plants:
-Only once did I see actual dirt, where there was digging for a city sign. There is a kind of short green carpet over everything. Not only are trees climbed by vines, but anything else that remains still for awhile is covered with growth of one kind or another. With always enough moisture and almost never a freeze, the plants grow year-round.
-In the late fall, many leaves have fallen to the ground, but small plants and flowers still are evident.
-Dandelions were one of the few plants I recognized. Otherwise, the island seems to be inhabited by its own plant kingdom.
-I saw oaks, but few other trees I recognized. The tall trees hosted large messy nests, which we discovered were not squirrel’s nests, but raven’s nests! Those tall, loud black birds with large wingspread wings dominate the air and trees in some places.
-Going to the breathtaking views off the Cliffs of Moher, the impressive take-away for most folks was the panoramic spread of the sea, the waves crashing in, the castles in the distance, the bracing sea wind. But for me it was different. I was enthralled by the life growing on the huge flat stones that formed a barrier between the path and the sea. So many varieties of lichen and moss, such interesting designs, connections, highlights. I could have stayed long looking at that tiny world.
Driving around:
-Driving along the narrow winding roads in the countryside, meandering through the valleys and up mountains, there were landscapes to our right and left that seemed right out of a fairy tale, hillsides of rocky ground totally covered with moss in infinite variety, rounded hillocks in shades of green rising to the top. And occasionally in these steep green-covered hillsides you would notice a lone sheep, or a cow, or a horse.
-It is interesting that in all our travels, we didn’t run across any gardens or crop fields. The farms (or crofts?) all had sheep or cattle or horses, or all three. And the ground everywhere was covered in a thick cushion of vegetation, mostly cropped short by the grazing animals, but occasionally long and waving in the wind.
-I was lucky I didn’t have to drive (on the left and up and down those narrow winding roads). I was riding with my family, and we took care of each other. We ate at local restaurants as we wound our way through the countryside. Although it was an interesting experience eating Irish food, I must admit that I’ll be glad to get back home to my usual cuisine. But in other ways, I’m bringing inspiration home: the pennywhistle! Maybe I can bring mine out and start playing on it. We had a lovely evening in an Irish Pub, one of three we hung out in. Pubs are all they are rumored to be, friendly, relaxed and comfortable. And the live Irish music in the last one we visited was exhilarating.
-We saw our share of old castles, dating back centuries. One had a 600-year-old yew tree growing right up through the center gallery. The castles spoke of a time before, with nobles, lords and ladies, living at the top of society, surrounded by many servants: farmers, milkmen, cooks, gardeners, maids, butlers… So the castles, vast and tall, were surrounded by small and simple dwellings for the servants. It was a far different world than today, or at least my world. If I had my pick of the roles back then, I would rather be a simple gardener or maid instead of the lofty lady.
An Overview:
-We traveled east across a vast ocean and then lived for six days on a rocky green island surrounded by the sea. I was the newcomer, the stranger, and from the beginning this visit was an adventure for me. I got to know a new part of our planet, and one that still preserves its own natural heritage. Our species has made its mark, of course, and Ireland’s cities are tightly built environments. But out in the countryside, there is a freedom and freshness that pulls you into a reality closer to nature. The clouds rush across the sky, birds spreading their wings, sheep and cows quietly grazing, the white horse standing at the top of the hill—all these things feel like home, like a place to rest, where time slows and you can just be. I am carrying this back with me, hoping to create my own little patch of Ireland when I get home. I’m also taking home the interest in the small things, the lichen, the field mice, the ground cover. And maybe I can let myself embrace the friendly open-heartedness of the Irish people.
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